Ruff Guide to… Mersea Island, Essex

Mersea’s colourful beach huts

If you’re keen to get away from it all but don’t want to travel too far from London, consider Mersea Island. Just nine miles from the ancient Roman town of Colchester, Mersea is one of my favourite places to escape to. My family have been visiting this little island for years so I may well be biased but if it’s peace and quiet you’re after, it can’t be beat. The burgeoning food scene is an added bonus. 

WHAT ARE THE MUST-SEES? It depends what you’re looking for. West Mersea is home to the hub of the island but the East is much quieter. The town centre has its own museum, not to mention a library and a whole host of independent shops – many of them selling antiques and quirky home furnishings.

Ernie Lady Grace
Ernie and I aboard Lady Grace

Get a feel for the island by taking a 20-minute boat trip on Lady Grace with Mersea local, Stacey Belbin. These run all day, every day from the jetty in the harbour and cost just £3. Dogs are welcome aboard, too. In fact, this is where Ernie first put his sea legs to the test!

It’s also worth checking out the foot ferry over to Brightlingsea from East Mersea, which takes just nine minutes. You can catch the boat to this quaint seaside town from Cudmore Grove Country Park during the summer months. The journey (£2 for adults and £1 for both children and dogs) certainly beats the 40-mile round trip by road.

Brewery
Beers available at the Mersea Island Brewery

A trip to the Mersea Island Vineyard is also a must. I’m a big fan of the Mersea Mehala (it’s a dry white) but if you visit before it’s Wine O’Clock, a coffee and cake at Maria’s Vintage Tea Room onsite is just as nice. Dogs are not allowed in, but there are tables outside. You can also stay at the vineyard, which is also home to a brewery and often hosts weddings.

WHERE’S GOOD FOR WALKIES? Cudmore Grove Country Park is pure dog heaven. This lovely park hugs the coast and has great year-round walks. There’s a lovely family atmosphere here – and the new nautical-themed kids’ play area only adds to that.

When we’re on Mersea, we love to stroll along the beach by Cudmore Grove and search for fossils – incredibly, a 300,000-year-old artefact was recently unearthed by the cliffs. The park aslo has historic World War Two pillboxes to explore and birds to spot but if the weather isn’t great, opt for a stroll through the meadows or along the sheltered path by the reservoir.

20160806_112217-1
Ernie gets muddy on Monkey Beach

The wonderfully-named Monkey Beach in West Mersea is also great. After you and your four-legged friend have stretched your legs, there are whole host of pubs and cafes along the front where you can stop and refuel.

BEST PLACE TO GRAB A BITE? Where do I start? Mersea is famed for its seafood and if it’s crab, lobster or mussels you crave, head straight for the The Company Shed. This family-run restaurant has a fantastic reputation and has been reviewed in many national newpapers and travel guides. The Shed – as it’s affectionately known – gets crazy busy and does not take bookings so arrive early to avoid disappointment.

A local secret, however, is Mehalah’s – a seafood and game restaurant run by the same family that own the Shed. It’s on the main road to East Mersea, which not many people venture down unless they’re staying nearby. In my opinion, the food here is just as good as The Shed, but without the crowds. Dogs aren’t allowed in the restaurant, unfortunately, but there are several tables out front.

Redwood
Redwood Stone Baked’s vintage van – complete with pizza oven!

Another one of my favourite places is Redwood Stone Baked. This artisan pizza joint, just over the road from Coastal Coffee, has revolutionised Mersea’s town centre food scene. Redwood cooks delicious pizza to order and if you can’t make it to the restaurant, don’t worry – it delivers. Watch out for the bright red fire brigade van zipping around the local area – it has been lovingly converted into a mobile pizza joint.

Victory
The Victory at Mersea offers dog-friendly accommodation and dining

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? The Victory at Mersea has reasonably-priced rooms – one of which is dog-friendly – but there are a whole host of holiday parks to choose from. Most have fantastic facilities and are close to the island’s main attractions. Whenever I visit the island, I stay at Mersea Island Holiday Park, which is operated by Away Resorts – but I may be a bit biased as my parents own a holiday home there! Read my review of the site here.

GET ME THERE: Mersea is approximately one hour away from London by car. Head towards Colchester on the A12 and from there, pick up the B1025 Mersea Road and follow it all the way to the island. By train, Colchester is your best bet and from there, a 20-minute taxi ride will take you to the heart of the island.

FIND OUT MORE: See visitmerseaisland.co.uk. And if you don’t want to get stranded on the Strood (Mersea gets cut off from the mainland twice a day at high tide), click here to find out the latest tide times and plan your travel.


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